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Brill with Rhubarb Sauce and Haricots Verts at Auguste |
Although I’ve been in France’s capital only a few
days, I’ve already managed to dine in two exceptionally good restaurants. Both
were in Paris’ fashionable 7th arrondissement, but the ambience and
the menus of these two places were worlds apart.
At Auguste, a restaurant that opened a few years
ago, the décor was modern with a gorgeous red velvet banquette taking center
stage in the main room. The talented chef’s creations were truly original and
inventive. My first course, a green asparagus bouillon studded with slices of
white asparagus and garnished with a celestial foam, was a definite winner, while
my tender fillet of brill topped with rhubarb puree and julienned haricots
verts, was just as tempting. For dessert a warm pistachio soufflé was superb distinguished
by the exquisite flavor of toasted nuts. A small ramekin of blood orange sorbet
made a refreshing garnish.
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Salad of Haricots Verts, Artichokes, and Foie Gras at Le Voltaire |
A short distance away at Le Voltaire, on the Quai
Voltaire, overlooking the Seine, I had another memorable meal, this one composed
of French classics. The dining room with its beautiful wood paneling, plush banquettes,
and soft lighting was timeless as well. My stellar first course was a salad of
extra thin haricots verts and fresh artichoke hearts tossed in a vinaigrette
and served with a generous slice of foie gras. My “onglet de veau” was a
masterful dish of tender cooked veal morsels paired with fresh apricots
accompanied by two creamy purees, one made with potatoes and another with
golden-hued squash. A tarte Tatin, France’s popular upside down apple pie, was served
with dollops of rich crème fraîche, and practically melted in my mouth.
The tab at each restaurant was on the high side,
hovering around 100 euros per person including moderately priced, but good wine.
I’d go back to both in a heartbeat, heading to Auguste for innovative fare and
to Voltiare for familiar French comforts.
54 rue de Bourgogne
Paris VII
01 45 51 61 09
Le Voltaire
27, quai Voltaire
Paris VII
01 42 61 17 49