Travel Travails

Lucky that our flight to Paris from Boston was 36 hours after the blizzard of the year hit New England, we touched down at De Gaulle Airport in perfect weather. Whew. Then, we hit something worse than a blizzard: the baggage handlers at De Gaulle Airport. Thirty minutes went by, then an hour, then another 30 minutes: still no bags. The Air France officials were quite helpful: “Not enough containers.” We began making friends with the other frustrated passengers. Finally, a full two hours after landing, our suitcases appeared on the conveyor belt. As I learned from our taxi driver, 10,000 bags had been abandoned at the airport during Paris’ own weather-related turmoil. Still, it took us longer to get our luggage than it took to drive from Amherst to Boston!

At our small apartment rental, my husband and I started to set up our computers. His connected right away, but mine met with a glitch. Two hours went by (a familiar time frame) and several emergency phone calls were made to the States. I, famished and not wanting to panic, went out to buy dinner.

At a favorite bakery I bought a crusty pain de campagne and a ficelle aux lardons (a thin baguette studded with bacon). Next I picked up cheeses –a smoked chèvre, a slice of Roquefort, and another of Comté (a buttery cheese that looks like Gruyère).  At a charcuterie, I purchased perfectly roasted potatoes and steamed winter vegetables. Finally, at the local grocery, I found beautifully trimmed lamb chops packaged with pats of beurre aux fines herbes and some flageolets, those light green, kidney-shaped beans that complement lamb so well, but have yet to find their way to our grocery shelves.

Back in my tiny kitchen, I quickly sautéed the chops, topped them with the herbed butter, and reheated the vegetables and beans. At that moment, my husband announced that I was again on line! Our delicious, but simple dinner tasted even better, causing the travails of our voyage to vanish completely!  We finished with cheeses and bread, and remembered why we love to come to France, baggage or no baggage—for the food, of course. 

Beurre Aux Fines Herbes

For my version place 4 tablespoons of softened, unsalted butter in a bowl; stir in 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh herbs (a combo of tarragon, parsley, and chives with an emphasis on the tarragon). Add 1 to 1 1 /2 teaspoons white wine vinegar to balance the sweetness of the butter and 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt. Mix well with a fork.  Roll into a log and cut into rounds to serve atop sautéed, grilled, or broiled lamb chops.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Dear Readers,

Although this blog and website are only a month old, many have already visited. I’d like to thank each of you who have read my posts and clicked on all those different pages on my new site. I love this high tech (well for me anyway!) way of keeping in touch with others who love food and cooking.

There’s a lot on the schedule for the new year—reports from Paris, new recipes to stave off the cold for those who live in chilly climes, and tips on the latest cookbooks, kitchen tools, and food trends. Stay tuned!

Meanwhile, I’d like to wish each of you joyful holidays filled with delectable indulgences and a happy and healthy 2011!

                                    Betty

So Simple, So Delicious—Scallops to Begin Your Holiday Feast!

This is the time of year when I feel like I’m a doctor on call. The other day at a lesson with my computer guru, the teacher only wanted to talk about eggnog. During my Christmas cooking class last week, the Q and A lasted so long that the course ended late. At the supermarket, friends greet me with questions about the roasts and birds they’ve chosen for their holiday menus, and as December 25^th approaches, there will be urgent emails and frantic phone calls. Everyone seems to want recipes (or should I say prescriptions!) for dishes that are extra special yet failsafe.   

Roasted Scallops with Tarragon Mustard Butter delivers on both fronts. The shellfish are arranged in individual scallop shells, dotted with a flavorful butter, and then roasted for about 12 minutes. A garnish of golden toasted bread crumbs adds color and texture. Both the butter and bread crumbs can be prepared a day ahead so there’s no last-minute stress. These succulent scallops floating in pools of melted herbed butter would make a showstopper beginning for a Christmas or a New Year’s Eve dinner.

If you have any questions about the recipe or about holiday entertaining, I’m “on call.” Just send me a note via “comments” on this post, and I’ll answer as soon as I can!

Roasted Scallops with Tarragon Mustard Butter

Tarragon Mustard Butter

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened   

3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon, plus 6 sprigs for garnish
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard  

2 teaspoons tarragon vinegar (or white wine vinegar)
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed (See cooking tip.)

1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt and several grinds of black pepper

Scallops

1/2 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 cup coarse fresh bread crumbs (See cooking tip.)

18 large sea scallops about 1 ounce each, side muscles removed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 scallop shells, crème brûlée dishes, or 1/2 cup ramekins

For Tarragon Mustard Butter, in a medium bowl mix together the butter, chopped tarragon, mustard, vinegar, fennel seeds, salt and pepper until well blended. (The butter can be prepared 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature until softened before using.) Makes about 1/2 cup.

For scallops, heat oil in a medium, heavy skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the bread crumbs, and cook, stirring constantly until they are crisp and golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from them from the skillet and place on a plate. (Bread crumbs can be prepared 3 hours ahead; cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature.)

To roast scallops, arrange a rack at center position and preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Use about 1/2 teaspoon of the Tarragon Mustard Butter to coat each of the scallop shells (or dishes). Pat scallops dry and place 3 scallops in the center of each shell. Dot the scallops in each shell generously in the crevices and on the tops with a generous tablespoon of the butter. Salt and pepper scallops. 

Roast until scallops are opaque and cooked through and butter has melted, 11 to 12 minutes. After 6 minutes, use a spoon to baste the scallops with some of the melted butter in their shells.

Remove and sprinkle each serving with some bread crumbs. Garnish with a tarragon sprig. Serves 6.

  

Cooking tip: To crush fennel seeds, place in a self-sealing bag and pound with a meat pounder or rolling pin, or use a mortar and pestle. Or, use a small spice grinder and ground the seeds coarsely.

          

Cooking tip: Use a good quality peasant loaf with crusts removed. Cut the bread into chunks and place them in a food processor. Pulse just until you have coarse crumbs.

5 Great Gifts Under $50 for the Food Lovers on Your List

William Sonoma Cooking at Home and Bon Appétit Desserts

These two huge books deliver big bang for your bucks. The first, authored by Chuck Williams, the founder of Williams Sonoma, and Kristine Kidd, a former food editor for Bon Appétit, includes 1000 recipes and is priced at $34.95 (Weldon Owen Publishers). The other, written by former Bon Appétit editor-in-chief Barbara Fairchild, boasts 600 delectable confections and costs $40 (Andrews McMeel Publishing). As a bonus you get a year’s subscription to the magazine with your purchase of the Bon Appétit book. Both are available in bookstores and at Amazon.com.

Glass Tumblers from The Conran Shop

These extra thin, sleek tumblers would make a great present for those who love to entertain. I have found multiple uses for them. They’re great as chic glasses or as cups for desserts like sundaes. I also use them as vases. I fill them with flowers and arrange several on my holiday table. They are $4 each. You can find them at www.conranusa.com. (search for Gio clear glass tumblers) and at The Conran Shop in ABC Carpet and Home in New York (on the lower level).  At the New York shop they even have these glasses attractively packaged in one of their boxes.

Truffle Salt

A real extravagance, this sea salt scented with bits of black truffle, packs a lot of flavor. My colleague, Elinor Klivans, told me about it, and now I’m hooked.  Sprinkle it on popcorn or scrambled eggs. Season polenta with it, or rub it on a good steak. This small bottle would be a great stocking stuffer. It’s $28 at Williams Sonoma (www.williams-sonoma.com) and also available at other cookware and food stores.

A Round of Stilton Garnished with Dried Fruits and Nuts

This is a “make-it-yourself” gift. Buy a round of English Stilton about 1 inch high at your favorite cheese shop. Then place it on a wicker tray and garnish with some pine or other Christmas greenery.  Surround the wheel with dried almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and dried apricots, cherries, raisins, and prunes. Wrap in cellophane and tie with ribbons. Keep refrigerated until you’re ready to give it to the lucky recipient.  A 1-inch round of Stilton purchased at Whole Foods cost me $48.

The French and Their Foie Gras

Leave it to the French to come up with a fast-food special that includes foie gras. While reading the Provence Post (www.provencepost.com), a terrific blog written by American Julie Mautner who lives in southern France, I learned that Quick, a French and Belgian chain, will be offering what it calls the “Supreme Foie Gras,” a beef burger topped with duck foie gras, relish, and lettuce, for 5 euros (a little more than $6). It will be a pre-Christmas special from December 17 to 19 at more than 300 of its outlets throughout France.

Although foie gras  (literally “fat liver”), produced from the super-sized livers of force-fed ducks and geese, is shrouded in controversy (many protest the practice of force-feeding), this luxury item remains a traditional favorite for the French, especially during the holidays. The chain explained that they wanted to give their customers a chance to start the holiday season early!

The Mentor and The Protégée

A long career in the food world has brought countless pleasures, but none tops having been a mentor. Over the past years, several Amherst College students have asked if they could come and cook with me. Although each has loved the one-on-one lessons and sampling homemade rather than dorm food, I have been the real beneficiary. These young “foodies” have brought enthusiasm, curiosity, and a fresh new perspective into my kitchen.

Natanya Khazzam, one of these talented interns, decided to pursue a career in the food world. She settled in New York, enrolled in NYU’s Food Studies program, and worked for two star chefs, Daniel Boulud (as a PR assistant) and Marcus Samuelsson (on his website). Recently, she landed a catering job—a cocktail party for a well-known media personality who requested food that was fresh, local, and mostly vegetarian. The event was a huge hit, and when my gifted protégée called with details of the menu, I was stunned by the originality of her dishes. One appetizer, grapes coated with goat cheese and roasted pumpkin seeds, was a variation on one of my own recipes. Her interpretation was so clever that it made me realize that she was no longer a mentee, but a new colleague.

Here’s my original and Natanya’s variation. Mine has a cool, refreshing taste, while the adaptation offers hints of sweetness and deep wintry notes. Both take minutes to assemble, can be made far ahead, and would be just right to serve during the holidays.

Pistachio and Goat Cheese Grapes

1/2 cup (2 1/2 ounces) shelled pistachios

Scant 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, optional

6 ounces creamy goat cheese

1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped mint plus sprigs for garnish

20 green seedless grapes, rinsed and patted dry

Place the pistachios in a plastic bag and crush them coarsely with a meat pounder or a rolling pin. If unsalted, add a scant 1/2 teaspoon salt to the bag and shake to mix. Then spread them on a large dinner plate.

Place the goat cheese in a medium bowl and with a table fork combine it with the chopped mint. Scoop out about 1/2 tablespoon of the mixture and press it evenly over all surfaces of a grape. Then roll the grape for a few seconds in the palms of your hands until the coating is smooth and even.  

Roll the grape in the pistachios and place it on a large plate. Repeat with remaining grapes. (Grapes can be prepared 2 days ahead. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature 15 minutes before serving.)

With a sharp knife halve the grape balls and arrange the halves on a serving tray. Garnish the platter with mint sprigs. Makes 40 servings.

Grapes Wrapped in Honeyed Goat Cheese and Pumpkin Seeds

1. Replace pistachios with toasted, salted pumpkin seeds (available at Whole Foods).

2. Replace mint with:

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon each dried thyme and dried crushed rosemary

Pinch of red pepper flakes.

3. Use a combo of green and red seedless grapes.

4. Use rosemary sprigs as a garnish in place of mint.

What’s Old is New Again!

Imagine my surprise when I picked up my December Bon Appetit and saw a gorgeous new cover photo of the chocolate ribbon cake I had created for the magazine in 1984! Barbara Fairchild, who’s been at Bon Appetit for over 30 years, most recently as editor-in-chief, commissioned the original story, and more than a quarter century later decided to bring the cake back to life for a new generation of readers. In her Letter From the Editor she gives this dessert a big compliment explaining that “Twenty six years later, it remains our most requested recipe, generating more mail over a longer period than any other recipe we have ever run.”  

Looking at that beautiful new picture brought back some funny memories for me. In 1987 the ribbon cake was included in my first book, Betty’s Rosbottom’s Cooking School Cookbook.  When I traveled around the country doing PR, the cake went with me. I placed it in a tall cake box and tucked it into an LL Bean canvas bag along with a pasta machine used to make the ribbons. It was pre-9/11, so no one questioned the large carry-on I slid under the seat on my flights.

During one leg of my tour, I traveled up and down the West Coast.  The cake and I were fine until I encountered a February heat wave in Los Angeles. The high temperature made the glaze start to melt and the oozing chocolate smudged the ribbons. Then a zealous airport official roughed up the cake as it went through security so that it tilted  like the Tower of Pisa. By the time I had arrived late at night in Seattle, I was in a panic. I  called the hotel kitchen and told them of my dilemma. The staff invited me down and helped remove and clean the ribbons, straighten the layers, and whip up more chocolate glaze. An hour later, restored to its former glory, the gateau sat safely in the kitchen’s big fridge.

The next morning I went to several interviews with the ribbon cake intact and then flew to San Diego to end my week-long odyssey. For my last event, I brought the cake to a local TV station where I did a short segment.  I had been planning to discreetly dispose of the ten-day-old, restored cake after the show, but the host invited a 100-year-old woman in the audience to join us for a birthday slice! All I could think of was that I didn’t want to see this sweet little old lady’s demise in front of my eyes.  The cake had logged thousands of miles, had undergone pastry surgery, and had spent most of the week unrefrigerated. “Would it kill?” was my concern.  Apparently not. The centenarian ate the slice and walked out of the studio with the rest of the cake. I never got an emergency call. This cake has more than just a few things going for it—looks great, tastes fabulous, and, oh yes, travels extremely well!

Look for the recipe for the Chocolate Ribbon Cake on page 100 in the December 2010 issue of Bon Appetit. You can also find it in Bon Appetit Desserts: The Cookbook for All Things Sweet and Wonderful, a collection of more than 600 Bon Appetit favorites.

Butcher To The Rescue

November 17, 2010

What a week! The photographs for Sunday Roasts are being shot as I write. The photographer, Susie Cushner, called first and the food stylist, Maggie Ruggiero, next. I ended up talking to Maggie for over two hours about each shot (there are 25), and how she envisioned each roast on the page—the angle, the garnishes, the props!  I thought all was well until a day ago when Maggie called in a quandary. Her New York butcher wasn’t familiar with “a boneless top sirloin beef roast” that she needed for a picture, so I got in the car with my IPhone and drove to Whole Foods. At the meat counter, one of the senior butchers proudly held up the boneless top sirloin, and I snapped and hit “send.”  Clearly the guy liked his new role because when I finished snapping, he asked, “Am I going to be famous?” 

WELCOME READERS

Welcome to my blog. Let me introduce myself. I’m Betty Rosbottom, a long time member of the food world (as a teacher, writer, cookbook author), and I’m thrilled to be launching my first post.   

I hope to give you some “behind the scenes” details about life as a professional cook on my blog. I  also have a brand new website up at the old address: www.bettyrosbottom.com where you'll find my newest recipes plus favorite ones from my archives. On that site, the little yellow cook icon will appear on every page as your one-click link to this blog which I will update frequently.

 I do want to keep in closer touch with my readers and to get to know the younger generation who are just as fascinated with food as I am, so here goes! 


Thanks for visiting.  Betty