Sometimes a dish is so unusual and so tantalizing,
that I find myself thinking about it long after the last bite. That was my
experience at Jean Georges’ Nougatine in New York recently. The minute I tasted
the hake fillet (a mild white fish similar to cod) served sashimi style,
drizzled with a rhubarb/balsamic dressing, I knew it was special.
Made with finely diced uncooked rhubarb,
balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and a generous seasoning of freshly ground black
pepper, the sauce was simple, but assertive and definitely the secret to the
dish. At home, I tried my own version, adding a hint of soy sauce for a salty
note. Instead of pairing this rhubarb sauce with raw fish, I opted for grilled
pork tenderloin steaks rubbed with crushed rosemary, kosher salt, and pepper.
